Selection of fabric: There are thousands of fabric designs and fabric quality. Fabric selection is done based on fabric quality required, like fabric color, fibre content, surface texture, hand feel, physical and chemical properties. If the required fabric is already available in the market, SIPO will purchase those fabrics from the stock. Our sourcing department need to explore various places for finding the required fabrics. Otherwise, we will work with the fabric supplier to develop the desired fabric quality.

Fabric development: The garment maker gives the fabric quality requirement to the fabric supplier for developing a new fabric design. At the fabric development stage, the negotiation of fabric price is done with the fabric vendors. Lab dip and desk loom are developed at this stage prior to bulk fabric order. Prior to bulk sourcing, fabric sample is tested to check whether the desired quality is matched with the developed fabric or not.

Garment maker takes approval of bulk fabric by sending a fabric swatch to the buyer.

Fabric sourcing: How much fabric is required for each garment? What is the average fabric consumption for bulk production? At this stage, there are few calculations on fabric consumption per garment. This work is done by pattern making department (CAD department). Based on the fabric consumption, total fabric requirement is generated for an order and the same is sourced from the pre-approved fabric supplier.

Fabric quality inspection: Whether the fabrics are purchased from the buyer nominated fabric suppliers or from the open market, garment makers are not sure whether all the fabrics are without fault and defect free. So fabric checking is an important process. The fabric may be required to check 100% or can be checked randomly based on fabric quality received. For an example, 4 Point System is used by the factories for fabric inspection and fabric quality grading.

Some fabric tests like fabric GSM, fabric shrinkage and color bleeding in washing are done by the factory. If the fabric shrinkage is more than the allowance, fabrics are pre-shrunk for bulk cutting. Sometimes patterns are modified according to the fabric shrinkage which gives the correct measurement in the garment after washing.

Fabric sorting and shade banding: It is a common fact that when fabrics are sourced in bulk, the fabrics are processed in different lots (batches) depending on dyeing machine capacity. So, there are chances of having shade variations of fabrics of the same colors. To avoid shade variation in garments shade band is prepared by the factory.

Similar to fabric sourcing all required trims and accessories are purchased. Trims and accessories are sourced in advance to production start. Trims requirement is calculated based on the trims consumption per garment.

Quality checking of trims and accessories: The quality of the trims are inspected and approved for production. Trims like laces, twill tapes, buttons, zippers, and drawcords are tested for color bleeding. Defective and damaged trims are separated and are not used in garments.

The process of making a pattern is drawing or art on flat paper of flat fabric. Basically, the textile industry makes its pattern using flat paper. Because the pattern can be easily removed from the pattern paper. Therefore, the textile industry follows the process of making a pattern using paper.

The pattern is important because, it is the first stage of making clothes. If the pattern is correct then the clothes should be accurate. Our co-client give us a list of sizes to the clothes, and the clothes follow the size and make a pattern with the assignment. Pattern is a big problem for all clothes.

It marks the process by which all patterns are stored in the long fabric. And this factory process reduces fabric damage before cutting. Marking to increase fabric efficiency.

Types of marking:
Manual marking process
Computerized marker making process
Manual marking process:
This is the process by which one makes the maker by hand. No computer software is used. Basically, anyone who does this process will be a very knowledgeable person, and he is able to do this.
Computerized marker making process:
This is 100% computer-generated, using CAD (design assisted Computer) or many other software.

“Relaxing” refers to the process that allows the material to relax and contract prior to being manufactured. This step is necessary because the material is continually under tension throughout the various stages of the textile manufacturing process, including weaving, dyeing, and other finishing processes. The relaxing process allows fabrics to shrink so that further shrinkage during customer use is minimize.

SIPO make the process of relaxing by hand or by machine. Hand-woven fabric usually involves loading the fabric bolts into the spinner and then feeding it by hand with a machine tool that eliminates fabric tension as it is pulled. Relaxing machine fabric performs the same process in an automated way.

SIPO will also incorporate quality assurance in this process to ensure that the quality of the fabric meets the customer standards. This step is done by manually looking at each fabric bolt using a lighted spot to identify production defects such as color inconsistencies or flaws in the item. Fabrics that fail to meet customer standards are returned to the textile factory.

After the fabric has been relaxed, it is transferred to the spreading and cutting area of the garment manufacturing facility. The fabric is first to cut into uniform plies and then spread either manually or using a computer-controlled system in preparation for the cutting process.

The fabric is spread to:

allow operators to identify fabric defects;
2. control the tension and slack of the fabric during cutting; and
3. ensure each ply is accurately aligned on top of the others.
4. The number of plies in each spread is dependent on the fabric type, spreading method, cutting equipment, and size of the garment order.

Types of fabric spreading system:
automatic
manual
Automatic
When the fabric spreads mechanically on the cutting table and the so-called automatic fabric spreads.

Manual
When the cloth is still distributed by a person at the cutting table and the hand cloth is said to spread. In my factory they work by hand.

Next, garment forms—or patterns—are laid out on top of the spread, either manually or programmed into an automated cutting system. Lastly, the fabric is cut to the shape of the garment forms using either manually operated cutting equipment or a computerized cutting system.

Laying of paper pattern helps one to plan the placement of the pattern pieces in a tentative manner.

Lay large pieces first and then fit in the smaller ones
It is very economical in laying the pattern and cutting. Even a small amount of material saved in a single layer will help to bring about a large saving of money as hundred’s of layers of fabric will be laid and cut simultaneously.
When laying, the length of the garment should be parallel to the selvedge of the material. Be sure the pattern is placed in the correct grain. Fabrics drape and fall better on the lengthwise grain and also last longer.
Parts that have to be placed on the fold should be exactly on the edge of the fold.
All laying should be done on the wrong side of the material.
When laying the paper pattern, consider the design of the fabric. Care should be taken to see that the design runs in the same direction throughout the garment. All checks and strips should match the seams both lengthwise and across.

This can be a manual or a computerized technique

The marker planner uses full-size patterns and arranges them in an economical manner on marker paper.
This is a specially printed paper having symbols on it which enable the marker planner to visually control the positioning of components according to specified grain lines.
Markers produced on paper are fixed to fabric with pins, staples or on an adhesive paper which is heat sealed to the top layer of the fabric.
Marker planning provides details of the spreads. In the cutting room, the fabric is laid manually or a spreading machine is used to arrange fabric inlays 100 (layers) and markers for the production, any in orders planned. Here planning is done also for fusible, linings, trims, pocketing etc.
The supervisors of marker planner plan and allocates the cut orders to various operations to be carried out in the cutting room.

Fabric Cutting
This is the major operation of the cutting room when they spread and cut into garments. Of all the operations in the cutting room, this is the most decisive, because once the fabric has been cut, very little can be done to rectify serious defects.

As the saying goes, “Once you cut it, there is no turning back”, and that expression describes the only complete rule of the cutting room.

A first planning consideration is whether the totals arrived at in the cutting room are the same as those required to maintain full production in the sewing room and subsequently the planned delivery schedule.

Because of any cloth problems created in the cutting room can affect the output in the sewing room.

It means that, is assumed that if there are any problems with the cutting, the sewing process will be affected as well as the end result. And there is nothing that could be done to improve the situation.

Assuming all components of fabric, design, and trims are acceptable and correctly planned and cut, the next stage is to extend the cutting room programme to the sewing room.

All cutting operations are carried out by straight knife cutting machines.

Types of cutting process
Manual cutting
Heat cutting
Laser cutting

Manual cutting:
It is a man-made procedure called a hand-cutting procedure. On my clothes they cut fabric by hand process. The main cut provides education to the employee and the employee follow the instructions.

Heat cutting:
Basically, a heat exchanger is used in this process and the machine has a copper coil. And the electric current passing through the coil was then heated. Then he cut the fabric. This machine is not suitable for fabric type fabric, it is used for non-woven fabric.

Laser cutting:
A small lamp is used for cutting. It is a very expensive method of cutting but cutting is very effective.

Embroidery and screen printing are two processes that occur only if directly specified by the client.Therefore, these processes are commonly subcontracted to the Professional co-factory of printing or embroidery.

Embroidery is performed using automated equipment, often with many machines concurrently embroidering the same pattern on multiple garments.

Each production line may include between 10 and 20 embroidery stations. Customers may request embroidery to put logos or other embellishments on garments.

Screen printing is the process of applying paint-based graphics to fabric using presses and textile dryers.
Specifically, screen printing involves sweeping a rubber blade across a porous screen, transferring ink through a stencil and onto the fabric. The screen printed pieces of fabric are then dried to set the ink. This process may have varying levels of automation or may largely be completed at manually operated stations.

It determined by the client's need, it may be requested to put logos or other graphics on garments or to print brand and size information in place of affixing tags.
 

Stitching or sewing is done after the cut pieces are bundled according to size, colour and quantities determined by the sewing room.

Basically, this process is done by sewing machine workers.it will sewn in an assembly line, with the garment becoming complete as it progresses down the sewing line.

Sewing machine workers receive a bundle of cut fabric and repeatedly sew the same portion of the garment , passing that completed portion to the next worker.

For example, There are workers who sew only the shirt collar on the body of the shirt, and then pass it on to the next workers to sew only the sleeves. This rule sets out the time to finish sewing the perfect clothing.

Quality assurance is performed at the end of the sewing line to ensure that the garment has been properly assembled and that no manufacturing defects exist.

When needed, the garment will be reworked or mended at designated sewing process.

This labor-intensive process progressively transforms pieces of fabric into garments.

Stitching is done as per the specification is given by the client. SIPO is expert in producing high-end quality garment, orders, our stitching is exquisite and praised by many co-brander.

The central process in the manufacture of clothing is the joining together of components.

High power single needle or computerized sewing machines are used to complete the sewing operation.

Fusing machines for fusing collar components, button, and buttonhole, sewing machines for sewing button and buttonholes are specifically employed.

In industry they follow a process to maintain sewing:

Collect fabric from cutting section
↓
Input the fabric into the line
↓
Set the machine settings
↓
Post production meeting
↓
Production line up set
↓
Production Starts
↓
Check goods quality by Sewing Quality Inspector
↓
Fault return to the worker
↓
Output

There will be checks and quality assurance at the end of the sewing line. Workers are required to ensure proper collection of clothing without production defects.

SIPO has the strict quality control standard of testing, for ensure the quality of the garment and reduce the percentage of clothing rejected by client.

In addition to identifying manufacturing defects, employees tasked with performing quality assurance are also looking for cosmetic flaws, stains, or other spots on the garment that may have occurred during the cutting and sewing processes. Spots are often marked with a sticker and taken to a spot-cleaning area where the garment is cleaned using steam, hot water, or chemical stain removers.

Fusing and pressing are two processes which have the greatest influence on the finished look of a garment. Fusing creates the foundation and pressing put the final seal of quality on the garment.

After a garment is fully sewn and assembled, it is transferred to the ironing section of the facility for final pressing.

The basic components of pressing are:

Steam and heat are necessary to relax the fabric and make it pliable enough to be moulded by manipulation.

Pressure: when the cloth has been relaxed by steam, the pressure is applied which sets the fibres into their new positions.

Drying: After the application of steam and pressure, the component or garment must be dried and cooled so that cloth can revert to its normal condition.

This is done by a vacuum action which removes surplus water from the fabric and at the same time cools it. For some pressure operations hot air or infrared heating is used instead of vacuum for drying;

Machinery used for pressing and finishing are
Hand irons with a vacuum press table
Scissors press
Carousel machines
Steam dolly

Folding: The finished garments are then folded in a specific dimension. Folding can be done by using a template too. The price tags, hang hags and any other kind of tags are attached to garment after folding. The garment folding types varied depending on the article and buyers requirement. Sometimes the whole garment is packed in a hanger without folding.

Packing: The folded garment is packed into a poly bag to keep it fresh till it reached to the retail showroom. Different types of packing accessories are used to keep the garment in a desired shape. Some products are packed into paperboard cartons directly without packing it into a poly bag.

Carton packing: For the transport of the finished garment are packed into bigger cartons.

Internal Audit: The packed garments are then inspected for quality assurance of the outgoing finished products. This process is followed for internal quality audit and to ensure that no defective garments are packed into the cartons.

Finished and ready product: Finally the garments are ready for the shipment and ready for the end consumers.